Feb, Week 2 - Wearing My Tourist Hat with Melissa

Just when I was starting to feel like a local, like I belonged, I became a tourist again. The timing perfect as after five months here I realized that I was already starting to take Paris for granted, the beauty, culture and amazing architecture around me were no longer part of my routine. I was no longer looking up at the buildings I was passing to admire the styles, curves and lovely detailed black iron balconies. I was no longer leaving my quartier for my weekly museum visits. Yes I was getting lazy and perhaps a bit too comfortable. I have my lovely long time friend Melissa to thank for making me look up and take in my surroundings once again.

We followed each other around Paris non stop for five days starting with walking up and down the stairs of La Tour Eiffel, with the hopes of working off Melissa’s birthday dinner that we thoroughly enjoyed at 58 Tour Eiffel on the first floor of La Tour Eiffel. With the help of the champagne and wine consumed at dinner, after we managed to get to know some of the statues at La Trocadero rather intimately, a first for me I have to say. The Palais Royale, shopping, art exhibits, more shopping, La Madeleine, Melissa’s credit card still not being turned down, Bateaux Mouches, Notre Dame, le Quartier Latin, yes more shopping and the grande finale for Melissa was a classical concert with Les Violons de France at Eglise Saint Julien le Pauvre on her last evening in Paris.

As I looked at my photos from the week I realized that I was no longer taking the normal tourist shots. It does not take long to realize that a city like Paris has layers upon layers that can take years to peel back and discover. I seem to now be somewhere in a middle layer, trying to see some of the under belly of Paris. It often makes me feel like I am living a double life, a half French part local and occasionally still part tourist but definitely still trying to figure this place out.

My double life will continue on for the next 10 days with a much-anticipated visit from George and a quick trip for the four of us to Mont Saint Michel. Merci for your visit Melissa mon amie, there is nothing like a visit from a good friend to make you realize how much you needed to laugh, the kind of laugh that makes tears run down your face. Another layer of the French I still need to grasp, their humour, a humour I am not quite used to, yet. But not sure if they would have found two Canadian women climbing statues at the Trocadero at 10pm on a Tuesday night in February very amusing.

Feb, Week 1 - Halfway Already!?

I have always had a like/dislike relationship with the French. Now after five months in Paris I am actually gaining an appreciation for the French and I like them. It has now been 19 years since I went to university here and living amongst them again is definitely a different experience than visiting regularly for a few weeks at a time. Could it be because the merchants at the local market now recognize me as a regular and have a smile on their face for me? That I now know and speak with my neighbours? And I actually have French friends (ok, maybe one or two). Yes the dislike is quietly fading away. You would not think that this would happen after a hospital visit, our first, and hopefully only, Emergency room visit to a local hospital. In short, Nathalie fainting at a friend's house, hitting her head, passing out on the bathroom floor, blood and then an ambulance ride. Three hours later we were on our way home, thanks to the super conscientious father who came in with her, friendly efficient service, and helpful nurses and doctors. The end result for Nathalie is four stitches on her right eyebrow. The end result for me, a new outlook.

Stay tuned for next week, the exciting Melissa update!

Holiday Report!

In France you are allowed to wish people Happy New Year until the end of January, so when in France do like the French. And I think it is not too late for a quick Christmas update.

Christmas in Paris is magical. The lights, the decorated store windows of les Grands Magasins like Galerie Lafayette and Printemps. There is a feeling of excitement in the air, like we are all little children again waiting for Santa to arrive. Cafes put up their oyster stands where fresh oysters and seafood can be had for lunch, dinner or to take home. The best cuts of meat are brought out, whole pigs (cochon de lait) are bought, bright orange Christmas mandarins light up rooms

Three days over Christmas were spent at my aunt & uncle’s lovely 1800’s country house. It was magnifique! I felt like we were out of a lovely French décor magazine, lovely Christmas tree, family gathered around the huge fireplace, two hour lunches and dinners and of course, being surrounded by our welcoming French family. The bonus was that is snowed and we played outside in the snow, building a snowman followed by snowball fights. Very important for three Canadian girls who miss the Calgary snow (ok well maybe only two young girls miss it, the third can do without for a year or two!)

Christmas in Paris also means good food and excellent beverages. We had our fair share of oysters, foie gras and champagne. These are some of the traditional foods served in France for the holidays. We enjoyed it all. You only live once!

And the coup de gras for the holiday season was going as a family to see the Emperor’s New Clothes at the Comedie Francaise Children’s Theatre and after seeing it finding out that it was reviewed as the worst holiday season play for kids. And yes, the Emperor did take off his clothes, all of them. I love this country!

Bonne Annee!!


As an important New Year's resolution for 2011, I vow to update this blog weekly, not sporadically. 

December in Paris

December and the holiday season is wonderful in Paris. The City of Lights becomes illuminated even more, if that is possible. With December comes along colder temperatures, even snow, that stayed on the ground for several days. The sidewalks were icy & treacherous yet I still saw French women making their way, very slowly, along the icy sidewalks in high heels, trying to look chic, hanging onto walls and banisters. For once my sensible shoes made sense!

December also seems to be the season of fur. Yes marvellous fur coats, hats, scarves and chic fur vests. No one wears fur like French women and men! Apparently they are still throwing paint on fur in London but in Paris, fur seems ingrained in the culture.  The French seem to have a knack for making everything look fashionable like the down ski jackets, all shapes & sizes, that are popular in Paris now. These are not your bulky North Face jackets but ski jackets, or as they call them, "doudouns" with belts, hoods, tapered to show lovely figures, long, short and of course, with fur collars. The best look I have seen is the fur vest on top of a ski jacket. Somehow it looks good. Ahh... to have the fashion gene!

For the Tai girls, December has been a busy month as always. For me a highlight is definitely the one evening photography course I took called "Holiday Sparkle". We started at the popular holiday windows at the Grands Magasins, like Galerie Lafayette and Printemps and over three hours made our way to the beautifully light up Champs Elysees. What a wonderful evening! I would have never made my way out in the cold by myself to do this. Now I have to take the girls back to see these Christmas lights.

The girls are full of smiles these days as they have made good friends and have been invited to birthday parties, play dates, and even sleep overs. Nathalie is enjoying her freedom of walking to and from school alone,  usually on her scooter, and even went to a friend's house accompanied by her friend, on the metro without an adult!

Gabrielle and I spent a morning at the Louvre together at her request to see the Greek god statues. After both girls reading all the Percy Jackson books numerous times they are obsessed with Greek mythology. Gabrielle gave me an amazing lesson in Greek mythology, explaining each statue to me, who it was and what they do. This was usually accompanied by the Roman name as well. Nothing like a lesson in mythology at the Louvre from your eight year old daughter!

George arrives today for a three week visit. We had plans to do some site seeing, shopping and of course eating at good restaurants. But with George hearing a "pop" on the squash court earlier this week, apparently tearing his calf muscle, he is arriving with a cane in hand. We will have a quiet, calm, stay put kind of three weeks instead. The important part is having him with us!

Back after a 2 month break!

Obviously life in Paris is good and very busy as I have not managed my weekly, or even monthly post. Either that or I have nothing to report! Actually this is certainly not the case.

This week I am posting a recent essay I wrote on Paris for a class I have just finished called Words & Images. The idea is to write an article and complement it with some photos. Tell me what you think. Merci!

                        Far away from the crowds of Cemetery Pere Lachaise and the celebrated necropolis of Montmartre there lies a small sinister cemetery tucked away in the far end of the 16^th arrondisement. It is surrounded by beautiful 19^th century apartment buildings in the Haussmann style. The decorative front of these buildings look onto the street while the backs, appearing unfinished, loom over the small space which is the Cemetery d’Auteuil on rue Claude Lorrain. Some of the earliest tombs date back to the early 1800’s. There are few recognizable names, an occasional count and countess and numerous generations of families buried together in family graves. This is the perfect place to come and see where regular local Parisians came to rest.

                        The space is eerily quiet and you can actually hear birds happily chirping. There are no more than four long rows of tombs, the earliest ones belonging to exclusive members born and dying in the days when Napoleon was crowning himself emperor. There are the sad tombs such as the one with the names Jeanine and Jean. Jeanine was three years old when she passed away. Jean, her brother, was two when he died several years later. There are only simple inscriptions on their family stone to celebrate their short lives, the incomplete buildings around them almost reflecting their unfinished life stories.

                        There are no rolling woodlands here, only ten trees dispersed amongst the mausoleums and sepulchers. Some gravesites are well maintained, even elegant with recent family members being added to the family grave. Others are decrepit, doors falling off, broken windows and ancient candles inside. There is even one wooden grave with only a small pile of rocks appearing to hold it down. There must be an interesting story and history behind this marker.

                        One has to wonder how much longer this cemetery will last, sitting in the middle of pricey apartments. The graves are taking up prime real estate. But if you have ever wanted to be alone in a cemetery, this is a good one to visit. There are no Jim’s, Oscar’s or crowds here.

Ingrid Littmann-Tai

Paris, November 2010

Week 4

After a beautiful September, fall has arrived in Paris. Winter coats, ski jackets, scarves and gloves have appeared as the French bundle up for 10 to 15 degrees. Yes we are still walking around in our t-shirts and sweaters and we often get asked "are you not cold?" We have now survived our first month in Paris and from my point of view it has been wonderful. I know my girls would say other wise. It is now just us three as grandma has left us for warmer climates for the next six weeks. Now some of our Highlights and Observations from the last week. Yes, we now have Observations as well as Highlights! 


Highlights
- Definitely the highlight of the week would be a concert with Les Violons de France at the Sainte Chapelle. What a location and what a concert. The lead violinist Frederic Moreau silenced the room with passionate solo after solo from Vivaldi's Four Seasons. He literally made the violin sing it was so sweet and dear sending shivers down my spine. Even the girls were mesmerized, watching his frantic fingers move non stop on his violin. We will definitely be attending another one of his concerts. 
- Dinner with a 90 year old family friend who has now known five generations of my mother's family.    What great memories and family stories she had to share with us. 
- Gabrielle's smile as she came out of her first session of her roller blading club/lessons. Tired, sweaty and a happy little girl. 
- Nathalie playing Team Handball (my all time favorite sport) in Phys Ed and loving it. We have even bought a handball to throw around. We will be off to see the local professional team play a match soon. Yes, professional handball! 
- Trying the Velib, the wonderful rent a bike system here. They have automated stands all over Paris where you can pick up a bike, cycle to your destination and then leave it at another stand. And it is popular as I often see men in suits, their briefcase in the front basket, cycling down the street. And of course, women in high heels and skirts, cycling along. We did discover though that Gabrielle is too small to use these bikes. As her feet can reach the peddles but not the ground, we decided to share a bike. After many unsuccessful yet very funny variations such as me riding, Gabrielle in the front basket, Gabrielle on the back wheel rail, and Gabrielle on the frame, we did discover a way to share the bike. I sit on the seat, steer and brake, legs sticking out sideways and Gabrielle peddling and hanging on to the middle of the handle bars. I am happy to report no crashes but we did not get very far. We will try again in the spring once Gabrielle has grown a few more inches. 
- As I found myself in yet another cafe not only was the bathroom clean but they had a special toilet paper dispenser by Distrimix that would spray perfume on the toilet paper before use. What will the French think of next!? Louis XIV would have loved this invention. 


Observations
Now some of my scientific, only true observations! 
I love the French as they have the gaul to do things us polite Canadians do not. In particular this week the gentleman who double parked his car in front of a cafe (yes I was in another cafe) and then went in and enjoyed a coffee and sandwich. On the street cars were lining up and getting stuck behind his double parked vehicle. He did not seem in the least bit concerned. 
Then there was the fellow speaking loudly on his cell phone next to me on a cafe patio. Being a nice Canadian, I gave him a somewhat dirty look hoping he would get the message. Not the French, within seconds two others abruptly told him to be quiet. 
Too many of the beautiful people I mentioned in last week's post, smoke. Too many people here smoke and far too many young people. I am still shocked when I see the number of kids smoking out in front of Nathalie's school. 
There are far too many Starbucks here now! Their cafes are large and beautiful but their coffee, that I had to try, not so good. 
The Apple Stores in Paris are as busy as all the others I have seen. I am happy as my computer problems have now been solved.
And finally, no matter where I go, cooking, laundry and cleaning seem to follow me. What is with that!? I thought I had left this all behind!  


(scroll down to see more pictures - still having formatting issues.)

Week 4

After a beautiful September, fall has arrived in Paris. Winter coats, ski jackets, scarves and gloves have appeared as the French bundle up for 10 to 15 degrees. Yes we are still walking around in our t-shirts and sweaters and we always get asked "are you not cold?"