"If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast." Ernest Hemingway, 1950
It was not going to be possible for me to go through a year in Paris, a year of writing and blogging without mentioning one of my favourites, good old Ernest. Seeing Paris through his eyes and descriptions in "A Moveable Feast" has always been a joy for me. Many of the neighbourhoods he writes about, I know well. Many of the feelings he had about Paris, I have and will always have. Paris has always been part of my life, always will be and when I am not here, I take Paris with me wherever I go. When I return, she welcomes me back with open arms.
It has been such a treat to be able to spend much of my free time in Paris writing. Yes it sounds like a cliche, coming to Paris to write, but it was one of my main personal goals for this year. I am now onto my fourth writing class with WICE and these keep on getting better and better. I am lucky to be part of a class/workshop being taught by the lovely Christine Buckley, a talented writer, author, who is motivating, generous with her time, full of constructive, helpful feedback and ideas. We are currently a small group of five students, from various parts of the world, in a Memoir class, all writing about such varied experiences in our lives, many life changing. I feel fortunate to be sharing in these ladies stories and memoirs. There are going to be some captivating and bittersweet articles, books and memoirs coming out of this group.
Focusing on my writing has led to me being hunched over my computer for far too many hours. This has led to large painful knots in my shoulders. When this first happened, I rushed out seeking a massage therapist to pound out my knots and pain. The first place I looked, that I pass regularly in the neighbourhood, had young Asian women in tight revealing clothing on their web site indicating that they were "available at any time for their clients needs." I did not think this was what I was looking for. I have found a Thai massage therapist nearby, who beats me up trying to relieve my pain. This includes climbing up on the table, driving her elbows into my knots, back and neck and karate like chops on my corpse. She tells me that I need to come weekly for this treatment. I agree. I am not sure about the breast massage though. This has never been part of my Canadian massage experience. This could certainly be part of a Thai massage but I suspect it could be the French influence as well. This is not part of the Paris I take with me wherever I go, but all the cafes I have written in, the fellow writers I have met, the inspiration this city gives me and the many words I have put down on paper are all an element of my very own personal Paris. My very own moveable feast. Merci Ernest!
Yes, we love Paris indeed!
Friday, March 18, 2011
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Bored, in Paris!? Better not be!
“Maman, what are we doing this weekend” asked Nathalie, with an extremely bored sounding monotone voice.
“What would you like to do?”
“I don’t know.”
“Well let’s find something to do. We are in Paris, there is always something to do! You cannot be bored in Paris!”
And we did find something to do, a very different kind of activity. We went to see Viktor Vincent in a show called Synapses. Yes, it has to do with the brain. He is a mentalist. Apparently he influences and controls your thoughts. Nathalie, her friend Marine and Gabrielle sat there staring for an hour wondering how all of this was done (I was too) and then would smile and laugh in amazement after each “trick.” Don’t think she was bored any more. At least not for this one hour.
The girls also discovered Monet’s Nympheas (Waterlillies) at the Orangerie last week. These are described as “the haven of peaceful meditation” and they certainly are. Both girls were quite taken with them. After sitting in the middle of the rooms, surrounded by these serene masterpieces, Gabrielle slowly rediscovered them through the lense of my camera, carefully taking many photos from all different angles. The result is some lovely pictures of the Nympheas. We will definitely have to make a trip to Giverny in the spring and see Monet's inspiration, his garden and pond, in person.
The week was finished off with attending a Women’s Professional Handball game! What is there not to like!? Talented, muscular, strong women playing an amazing sport at a high level. All the things I attempted to be and do 20 years ago. We will definitely be back to watch more games. Nathalie liked it and Elle, well she watched Toy Story 3 on her iPod, so maybe not so much.
Between amazing art, performances that scramble your brain and professional sports, I assume that it was a good non boring week for my children. It certainly was for me. Nathalie now tells me that she would like try oysters, which we will definitely do soon. After enjoying escargot, I am sure she will savour oysters just as much. Planned for this weekend, a classical Mozart concert for children at the Chatelet Theatre. Yes I am working on having well rounded children who appreciate the arts and the finer things in life! And really, what better place to do this than in Paris!?
And finally, you can’t be living in Paris and not comment on the small creatures we share the sidewalks with (as well as their many droppings.) When we first arrived we laughed at many of the little “rat dogs” we saw, as we like to call them. Now six months later, as with small cars, we seem to have developed a taste for small dogs too (but not quite the rat like ones.) We coo when we see little cute dogs now, even the fluffy ones. This week the cooing has temporarily slowed down as we had to say goodbye to our beloved dog back home, Hershey. At 15 ½ years old she lived a good long happy life, was well loved and a big part of our family. She would have fit right in here and would have been a wonderful fluffy barky Parisian dog. Like many Parisian canines, Hershey thought she was human and she would have loved the Parisian restaurant scene, being allowed inside and not having to be tied up outside as in Canada. We will certainly always coo and smile when thinking of our beloved Hershey.
“What would you like to do?”
“I don’t know.”
“Well let’s find something to do. We are in Paris, there is always something to do! You cannot be bored in Paris!”
And we did find something to do, a very different kind of activity. We went to see Viktor Vincent in a show called Synapses. Yes, it has to do with the brain. He is a mentalist. Apparently he influences and controls your thoughts. Nathalie, her friend Marine and Gabrielle sat there staring for an hour wondering how all of this was done (I was too) and then would smile and laugh in amazement after each “trick.” Don’t think she was bored any more. At least not for this one hour.
The girls also discovered Monet’s Nympheas (Waterlillies) at the Orangerie last week. These are described as “the haven of peaceful meditation” and they certainly are. Both girls were quite taken with them. After sitting in the middle of the rooms, surrounded by these serene masterpieces, Gabrielle slowly rediscovered them through the lense of my camera, carefully taking many photos from all different angles. The result is some lovely pictures of the Nympheas. We will definitely have to make a trip to Giverny in the spring and see Monet's inspiration, his garden and pond, in person.
The week was finished off with attending a Women’s Professional Handball game! What is there not to like!? Talented, muscular, strong women playing an amazing sport at a high level. All the things I attempted to be and do 20 years ago. We will definitely be back to watch more games. Nathalie liked it and Elle, well she watched Toy Story 3 on her iPod, so maybe not so much.
Between amazing art, performances that scramble your brain and professional sports, I assume that it was a good non boring week for my children. It certainly was for me. Nathalie now tells me that she would like try oysters, which we will definitely do soon. After enjoying escargot, I am sure she will savour oysters just as much. Planned for this weekend, a classical Mozart concert for children at the Chatelet Theatre. Yes I am working on having well rounded children who appreciate the arts and the finer things in life! And really, what better place to do this than in Paris!?
And finally, you can’t be living in Paris and not comment on the small creatures we share the sidewalks with (as well as their many droppings.) When we first arrived we laughed at many of the little “rat dogs” we saw, as we like to call them. Now six months later, as with small cars, we seem to have developed a taste for small dogs too (but not quite the rat like ones.) We coo when we see little cute dogs now, even the fluffy ones. This week the cooing has temporarily slowed down as we had to say goodbye to our beloved dog back home, Hershey. At 15 ½ years old she lived a good long happy life, was well loved and a big part of our family. She would have fit right in here and would have been a wonderful fluffy barky Parisian dog. Like many Parisian canines, Hershey thought she was human and she would have loved the Parisian restaurant scene, being allowed inside and not having to be tied up outside as in Canada. We will certainly always coo and smile when thinking of our beloved Hershey.
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
Transportations a la Parisien
Courtesy of a friendly Paris cab driver last week I discovered some new information about this country that makes me like it more. Hand held cell phone use has been banned since 2003. Yes 2003! And if you get caught you are fined and lose 2 points off your Permis de Conduire. Several other countries with similar laws include Germany, Italy, Belgium, the UK, Australia, Japan. The list is quite extensive. Do you hear that Alberta!? Albertans are not great drivers and certainly not better than drivers in these other countries. For once France seems to have it correct and has since 2003.
I have rediscovered my love for small cars while here. I will completely ignore the Maserati I often see and go straight to a realistic small car. My new favorite is the Fiat 500. I even thought about getting one when I go back to Calgary. Then I realized that I would get decapitated and totally flattened by the first pick up truck or SUV that would come along. So I will stick with my lovely Lexus for now.
I have also been admiring the gorgeous BMW R1200 bike regularly parked nearby on the sidewalk. Reminds us all of Ewan McGregor and his adventures in Long Way Round and Long Way Down. Now I know why he had a hard time picking up his bike every time he dropped it. But it would be a pretty sweet ride, maybe just not in France where two wheelers count for 20% of the road accident fatalities (but only 2% of the drivers!). I will stick with my main modes of transportation here then, the metro and my own 2 wheeler, riding Elle's scooter home from her school. No accidents yet for me on the scooter I am happy to report! So no Fiat for me but maybe a BMW bike back in Calgary!?
Just going over our pictures from Mont Saint Michel which are gorgeous, especially George's. So nice to have an excellent photographer, excellent camera with a selection of lenses in the family. Just glad it is not me carrying them around! More on the lovely Mont SM next time.
I have rediscovered my love for small cars while here. I will completely ignore the Maserati I often see and go straight to a realistic small car. My new favorite is the Fiat 500. I even thought about getting one when I go back to Calgary. Then I realized that I would get decapitated and totally flattened by the first pick up truck or SUV that would come along. So I will stick with my lovely Lexus for now.
I have also been admiring the gorgeous BMW R1200 bike regularly parked nearby on the sidewalk. Reminds us all of Ewan McGregor and his adventures in Long Way Round and Long Way Down. Now I know why he had a hard time picking up his bike every time he dropped it. But it would be a pretty sweet ride, maybe just not in France where two wheelers count for 20% of the road accident fatalities (but only 2% of the drivers!). I will stick with my main modes of transportation here then, the metro and my own 2 wheeler, riding Elle's scooter home from her school. No accidents yet for me on the scooter I am happy to report! So no Fiat for me but maybe a BMW bike back in Calgary!?
Just going over our pictures from Mont Saint Michel which are gorgeous, especially George's. So nice to have an excellent photographer, excellent camera with a selection of lenses in the family. Just glad it is not me carrying them around! More on the lovely Mont SM next time.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Feb, Week 2 - Wearing My Tourist Hat with Melissa
Just when I was starting to feel like a local, like I belonged, I became a tourist again. The timing perfect as after five months here I realized that I was already starting to take Paris for granted, the beauty, culture and amazing architecture around me were no longer part of my routine. I was no longer looking up at the buildings I was passing to admire the styles, curves and lovely detailed black iron balconies. I was no longer leaving my quartier for my weekly museum visits. Yes I was getting lazy and perhaps a bit too comfortable. I have my lovely long time friend Melissa to thank for making me look up and take in my surroundings once again.
We followed each other around Paris non stop for five days starting with walking up and down the stairs of La Tour Eiffel, with the hopes of working off Melissa’s birthday dinner that we thoroughly enjoyed at 58 Tour Eiffel on the first floor of La Tour Eiffel. With the help of the champagne and wine consumed at dinner, after we managed to get to know some of the statues at La Trocadero rather intimately, a first for me I have to say. The Palais Royale, shopping, art exhibits, more shopping, La Madeleine, Melissa’s credit card still not being turned down, Bateaux Mouches, Notre Dame, le Quartier Latin, yes more shopping and the grande finale for Melissa was a classical concert with Les Violons de France at Eglise Saint Julien le Pauvre on her last evening in Paris.
As I looked at my photos from the week I realized that I was no longer taking the normal tourist shots. It does not take long to realize that a city like Paris has layers upon layers that can take years to peel back and discover. I seem to now be somewhere in a middle layer, trying to see some of the under belly of Paris. It often makes me feel like I am living a double life, a half French part local and occasionally still part tourist but definitely still trying to figure this place out.
My double life will continue on for the next 10 days with a much-anticipated visit from George and a quick trip for the four of us to Mont Saint Michel. Merci for your visit Melissa mon amie, there is nothing like a visit from a good friend to make you realize how much you needed to laugh, the kind of laugh that makes tears run down your face. Another layer of the French I still need to grasp, their humour, a humour I am not quite used to, yet. But not sure if they would have found two Canadian women climbing statues at the Trocadero at 10pm on a Tuesday night in February very amusing.
We followed each other around Paris non stop for five days starting with walking up and down the stairs of La Tour Eiffel, with the hopes of working off Melissa’s birthday dinner that we thoroughly enjoyed at 58 Tour Eiffel on the first floor of La Tour Eiffel. With the help of the champagne and wine consumed at dinner, after we managed to get to know some of the statues at La Trocadero rather intimately, a first for me I have to say. The Palais Royale, shopping, art exhibits, more shopping, La Madeleine, Melissa’s credit card still not being turned down, Bateaux Mouches, Notre Dame, le Quartier Latin, yes more shopping and the grande finale for Melissa was a classical concert with Les Violons de France at Eglise Saint Julien le Pauvre on her last evening in Paris.
As I looked at my photos from the week I realized that I was no longer taking the normal tourist shots. It does not take long to realize that a city like Paris has layers upon layers that can take years to peel back and discover. I seem to now be somewhere in a middle layer, trying to see some of the under belly of Paris. It often makes me feel like I am living a double life, a half French part local and occasionally still part tourist but definitely still trying to figure this place out.
My double life will continue on for the next 10 days with a much-anticipated visit from George and a quick trip for the four of us to Mont Saint Michel. Merci for your visit Melissa mon amie, there is nothing like a visit from a good friend to make you realize how much you needed to laugh, the kind of laugh that makes tears run down your face. Another layer of the French I still need to grasp, their humour, a humour I am not quite used to, yet. But not sure if they would have found two Canadian women climbing statues at the Trocadero at 10pm on a Tuesday night in February very amusing.
Monday, February 7, 2011
Feb, Week 1 - Halfway Already!?
I have always had a like/dislike relationship with the French. Now after five months in Paris I am actually gaining an appreciation for the French and I like them. It has now been 19 years since I went to university here and living amongst them again is definitely a different experience than visiting regularly for a few weeks at a time. Could it be because the merchants at the local market now recognize me as a regular and have a smile on their face for me? That I now know and speak with my neighbours? And I actually have French friends (ok, maybe one or two). Yes the dislike is quietly fading away. You would not think that this would happen after a hospital visit, our first, and hopefully only, Emergency room visit to a local hospital. In short, Nathalie fainting at a friend's house, hitting her head, passing out on the bathroom floor, blood and then an ambulance ride. Three hours later we were on our way home, thanks to the super conscientious father who came in with her, friendly efficient service, and helpful nurses and doctors. The end result for Nathalie is four stitches on her right eyebrow. The end result for me, a new outlook.
Stay tuned for next week, the exciting Melissa update!
Stay tuned for next week, the exciting Melissa update!
Monday, January 31, 2011
Holiday Report!
In France you are allowed to wish people Happy New Year until the end of January, so when in France do like the French. And I think it is not too late for a quick Christmas update.
Christmas in Paris is magical. The lights, the decorated store windows of les Grands Magasins like Galerie Lafayette and Printemps. There is a feeling of excitement in the air, like we are all little children again waiting for Santa to arrive. Cafes put up their oyster stands where fresh oysters and seafood can be had for lunch, dinner or to take home. The best cuts of meat are brought out, whole pigs (cochon de lait) are bought, bright orange Christmas mandarins light up rooms
Three days over Christmas were spent at my aunt & uncle’s lovely 1800’s country house. It was magnifique! I felt like we were out of a lovely French décor magazine, lovely Christmas tree, family gathered around the huge fireplace, two hour lunches and dinners and of course, being surrounded by our welcoming French family. The bonus was that is snowed and we played outside in the snow, building a snowman followed by snowball fights. Very important for three Canadian girls who miss the Calgary snow (ok well maybe only two young girls miss it, the third can do without for a year or two!)
Christmas in Paris also means good food and excellent beverages. We had our fair share of oysters, foie gras and champagne. These are some of the traditional foods served in France for the holidays. We enjoyed it all. You only live once!
And the coup de gras for the holiday season was going as a family to see the Emperor’s New Clothes at the Comedie Francaise Children’s Theatre and after seeing it finding out that it was reviewed as the worst holiday season play for kids. And yes, the Emperor did take off his clothes, all of them. I love this country!
Bonne Annee!!
As an important New Year's resolution for 2011, I vow to update this blog weekly, not sporadically.
As an important New Year's resolution for 2011, I vow to update this blog weekly, not sporadically.
Thursday, December 16, 2010
December in Paris
December and the holiday season is wonderful in Paris. The City of Lights becomes illuminated even more, if that is possible. With December comes along colder temperatures, even snow, that stayed on the ground for several days. The sidewalks were icy & treacherous yet I still saw French women making their way, very slowly, along the icy sidewalks in high heels, trying to look chic, hanging onto walls and banisters. For once my sensible shoes made sense!
December also seems to be the season of fur. Yes marvellous fur coats, hats, scarves and chic fur vests. No one wears fur like French women and men! Apparently they are still throwing paint on fur in London but in Paris, fur seems ingrained in the culture. The French seem to have a knack for making everything look fashionable like the down ski jackets, all shapes & sizes, that are popular in Paris now. These are not your bulky North Face jackets but ski jackets, or as they call them, "doudouns" with belts, hoods, tapered to show lovely figures, long, short and of course, with fur collars. The best look I have seen is the fur vest on top of a ski jacket. Somehow it looks good. Ahh... to have the fashion gene!
For the Tai girls, December has been a busy month as always. For me a highlight is definitely the one evening photography course I took called "Holiday Sparkle". We started at the popular holiday windows at the Grands Magasins, like Galerie Lafayette and Printemps and over three hours made our way to the beautifully light up Champs Elysees. What a wonderful evening! I would have never made my way out in the cold by myself to do this. Now I have to take the girls back to see these Christmas lights.
The girls are full of smiles these days as they have made good friends and have been invited to birthday parties, play dates, and even sleep overs. Nathalie is enjoying her freedom of walking to and from school alone, usually on her scooter, and even went to a friend's house accompanied by her friend, on the metro without an adult!
Gabrielle and I spent a morning at the Louvre together at her request to see the Greek god statues. After both girls reading all the Percy Jackson books numerous times they are obsessed with Greek mythology. Gabrielle gave me an amazing lesson in Greek mythology, explaining each statue to me, who it was and what they do. This was usually accompanied by the Roman name as well. Nothing like a lesson in mythology at the Louvre from your eight year old daughter!
George arrives today for a three week visit. We had plans to do some site seeing, shopping and of course eating at good restaurants. But with George hearing a "pop" on the squash court earlier this week, apparently tearing his calf muscle, he is arriving with a cane in hand. We will have a quiet, calm, stay put kind of three weeks instead. The important part is having him with us!
December also seems to be the season of fur. Yes marvellous fur coats, hats, scarves and chic fur vests. No one wears fur like French women and men! Apparently they are still throwing paint on fur in London but in Paris, fur seems ingrained in the culture. The French seem to have a knack for making everything look fashionable like the down ski jackets, all shapes & sizes, that are popular in Paris now. These are not your bulky North Face jackets but ski jackets, or as they call them, "doudouns" with belts, hoods, tapered to show lovely figures, long, short and of course, with fur collars. The best look I have seen is the fur vest on top of a ski jacket. Somehow it looks good. Ahh... to have the fashion gene!
For the Tai girls, December has been a busy month as always. For me a highlight is definitely the one evening photography course I took called "Holiday Sparkle". We started at the popular holiday windows at the Grands Magasins, like Galerie Lafayette and Printemps and over three hours made our way to the beautifully light up Champs Elysees. What a wonderful evening! I would have never made my way out in the cold by myself to do this. Now I have to take the girls back to see these Christmas lights.
The girls are full of smiles these days as they have made good friends and have been invited to birthday parties, play dates, and even sleep overs. Nathalie is enjoying her freedom of walking to and from school alone, usually on her scooter, and even went to a friend's house accompanied by her friend, on the metro without an adult!
Gabrielle and I spent a morning at the Louvre together at her request to see the Greek god statues. After both girls reading all the Percy Jackson books numerous times they are obsessed with Greek mythology. Gabrielle gave me an amazing lesson in Greek mythology, explaining each statue to me, who it was and what they do. This was usually accompanied by the Roman name as well. Nothing like a lesson in mythology at the Louvre from your eight year old daughter!
George arrives today for a three week visit. We had plans to do some site seeing, shopping and of course eating at good restaurants. But with George hearing a "pop" on the squash court earlier this week, apparently tearing his calf muscle, he is arriving with a cane in hand. We will have a quiet, calm, stay put kind of three weeks instead. The important part is having him with us!
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