With good bye lunches and dinners starting last week, I can no longer deny that we are soon on our way home. After several days of panicking and then understanding that this is not going to accomplish anything, I find myself calm and slowing down. With this stillness has come days of being a flaneur in Paris: walking aimlessly, discovering new neighbourhoods, no real goal or destination in mind.
I found myself strolling in the Cimitiere Montparnasse this week. Two of the most popular graves here are those of Serge Gainsbourg and Jean-Paul Sartre. Gainsbourg was an iconic French singer-songwriter, actor and director. It has been said that he "elevated song to the level of art." I walked up to Gainsbourg's grave just as a French woman was placing a pack of cigarettes, a lighter, metro tickets and a personalized note on his tombstone, which was already covered with numerous tributes fans have lovingly left behind. I could hear two Brits behind me, one saying to the other "did she just put a packet of fags on his tombstone?" in a strong English accent. "Disgusting" was the other's response. Gainsbourg was rarely seen without a smoke in his mouth. The cigarette pack brandishing fan then took off her coat to reveal a black t-shirt with white lyrics from the song "La Javanaise". Even through her slight embarrassment, she was quite pleased to be there. I guess crazy fans exist all around the world. This could be me in 30 years at Jim Cuddy's grave in my 80's wearing a t-shirt saying "And if we're lost, then we are lost together." For now, I look forward to seeing Jim next week at La Maroquinerie. And perhaps bringing some of Serge's music home, with his smooth voice, sexual and dark undertones, would be an excellent Paris souvenir. "J'avoue j'en ai bave pour vous mon amour."
I then searched for Sartre's grave for half an hour, to no avail. I'm sure he would have something existentialist to say about this and that I didn't consciously want to find it.
90 minutes in the cemetery being enough, I made my way over to la Foundation Henri Cartier-Bresson for a photo exhibit by Mitch Epstein titled American Power. I was pleased to see that this was not about the power Americans like to have but rather, all the power they greedily consume. The photos of nuclear reactors, electrical plants, off shore oil platforms, wind turbines, oil pumps, certainly made me reflect on what energy hogs we all are. At least I was relatively green this last year in my 50 sq metre Parisian apartment. And I have my hybrid car anxiously waiting for me at home.
The girls and I managed to squeeze in a quick rainy visit to the Musee Rodin with the always amazing, 90 year old, Mirielle. No visit to Paris is complete without a morning here; Le Penseur, the cheery Gates of Hell, The Burghers of Calais and my favorites, Le Baiser and La Cathedrale. The Cathedral has always signified a powerful lover's union to me, a triumphant interaction. I tend to ignore the symbols of hope and faith or any religious significance, with the two right hands pointing towards the sky.
Thursday I had a special meeting and good-bye lunch with my Memoir Writing Group. Working with them and meeting weekly for the past 5 months has been incredibly motivating and has literally launched my writing. Merci les amies and until next year. D'accord!?
And of course, no lunch in a family owned Parisian bistro is complete without the family pet watching us enjoy our food!
Two weeks left. I will see how much I can squeeze in and don't think that sleeping should be on the agenda. After all, Paris is open day and night, 7 days a week. I figure emptying the apartment and packing can all be done in the last 48 hours. And then I can start panicking!
Yes, we love Paris indeed!
Friday, June 24, 2011
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Family Adventuring - Canal Saint Martin
With less than a month left in Paris I seem to have slipped back into tourist mode. I know my days here are limited and as a result I am squeezing every minute out of them that I can. If I could I would stay up 24/7 to do as much as I can before our dreaded departure date.
Today the girls and I went to the Canal Saint Martin in northeastern Paris. This Canal feeds into the Seine in the south and the Bassin de la Villette and the Canal de l'Ourq in the north. We hopped on a boat at La Bastille and took a 2 1/2 hour trip up the canal. Napoléon ordered the construction of the Canal Saint-Martin in 1802. It was originally built to link the Canal de l'Ourq to supply fresh water to the city. In the 19th century, the area was mostly occupied by working-class laborers. Only recently has it started to attract well-to-do professionals eager to snag apartments with views of the canal.
The boat started by going into the 1km long vaulted tunnel under the Place de la Bastille. This was followed by 4 double locks and 2 swing bridges along the canal. Numerous classic iron footbridges traverse the canal, usually with people on them, looking down at us, while we were looking up at them. The girls enjoyed going through locks in a boat for the first time, watching the water swish in and the boat quickly moving upward. I enjoyed the quaint neighbourhoods we passed through, the foot bridges and the fabulous people watching. I need to invest in a large zoom, or "borrow" George's Nikon & lenses, to zoom in on some of interesting faces and characters lining the canal, again, us looking at them, while they were checking us out.
Next time I make it to this part of Paris I will have to nurse a drink on one of the many local terraces and enjoy a meal at the current hot spot, Chez Prune. Its where all the trendy young Parisians go, so I will, of course, fit right in!
Tomorrow more adventuring for me in eastern Paris at the Bois de Vincennes as I explore the little known Jardin Tropical, or less nicely put, what remains of the old human zoo from the 1907 colonial expo. I will finish the week days out with a visit Friday to le Grand Palais to discover an artist new to me, Odilon Redon. It certainly looks like the next 3 weeks will be non stop for me, clutching to every last minute I can in my adopted hometown.
Today the girls and I went to the Canal Saint Martin in northeastern Paris. This Canal feeds into the Seine in the south and the Bassin de la Villette and the Canal de l'Ourq in the north. We hopped on a boat at La Bastille and took a 2 1/2 hour trip up the canal. Napoléon ordered the construction of the Canal Saint-Martin in 1802. It was originally built to link the Canal de l'Ourq to supply fresh water to the city. In the 19th century, the area was mostly occupied by working-class laborers. Only recently has it started to attract well-to-do professionals eager to snag apartments with views of the canal.
The boat started by going into the 1km long vaulted tunnel under the Place de la Bastille. This was followed by 4 double locks and 2 swing bridges along the canal. Numerous classic iron footbridges traverse the canal, usually with people on them, looking down at us, while we were looking up at them. The girls enjoyed going through locks in a boat for the first time, watching the water swish in and the boat quickly moving upward. I enjoyed the quaint neighbourhoods we passed through, the foot bridges and the fabulous people watching. I need to invest in a large zoom, or "borrow" George's Nikon & lenses, to zoom in on some of interesting faces and characters lining the canal, again, us looking at them, while they were checking us out.
Next time I make it to this part of Paris I will have to nurse a drink on one of the many local terraces and enjoy a meal at the current hot spot, Chez Prune. Its where all the trendy young Parisians go, so I will, of course, fit right in!
Tomorrow more adventuring for me in eastern Paris at the Bois de Vincennes as I explore the little known Jardin Tropical, or less nicely put, what remains of the old human zoo from the 1907 colonial expo. I will finish the week days out with a visit Friday to le Grand Palais to discover an artist new to me, Odilon Redon. It certainly looks like the next 3 weeks will be non stop for me, clutching to every last minute I can in my adopted hometown.
Monday, June 6, 2011
Where did May go!?
My forty something birthday this past weekend was certainly entertaining and unique. What a delight to be celebrated by my adopted Parisian family, Mirielle and Les Cabritas. Excellent wine, chilled champagne, delicious food, many laughs, a beautiful warm evening and most importantly, good company made my Paris birthday memorable. Merci les amis et ma famille.
Saturday was spent wandering around Roland Garros, trying to sneak a peak at some of my old favorite tennis players with tickets for the Legends Tournament –basically all the “older” players. Came upon a fun game with Andre Agassi, Jim Courier and others. Even in an amusing laissez faire exhibition match, I would not want to be anywhere near the tennis court with either of these two. Came across Nadal practicing for the finals, his serves whizzing by, blurry tennis balls flying all over the court. Nice arms on that boy! We also watched the ladies Legends doubles semi-finals with Lindsay Davenport, Martina Hingis vs Sandrine Testud and Andrea Temesvari. Seeing these amazing women hit the ball certainly makes me want to get back on the court and see if I still even know how to hold a racket. Tennis is now officially on the Calgary 2011 summer activities list. I kept scanning the crowds for my 1980’s tennis hero Borg in his Fila track suit and sweaty headband but no Bjorn sightings for me at the French Open. Not too happy to hear that Nadal has now matched Borg’s record of six French Open titles.
Fabulous 9 day visit from Jackie, le theatre, handball games, writing groups, graffiti, Musee d’Orsay, Andre Agassi, a trip to Gex, family visits, Montmartre, Loveday, lunch & visits with long lost German relatives, Belleville, sun filled days, bike rides, perfectly chilled panaches, Napoleon’s tomb, the streets of Paris, climbing La Tour Eiffel for the 3rd time this year, being "mooned" by French teenagers, Les Invalides, walks along Blvd de Montmorency, Corinne & Dave, many hours writing, weekends at the family country house, and far too much wine have all kept me from my weekly blog updates –at least these are my credible excuses. With one month left is Paris I am being called by the deliciously warm summer days & evenings and the gorgeous city streets. Am feeling “bien dans ma peau” in my home away from home. Plan to take advantage of it while I can.
Saturday was spent wandering around Roland Garros, trying to sneak a peak at some of my old favorite tennis players with tickets for the Legends Tournament –basically all the “older” players. Came upon a fun game with Andre Agassi, Jim Courier and others. Even in an amusing laissez faire exhibition match, I would not want to be anywhere near the tennis court with either of these two. Came across Nadal practicing for the finals, his serves whizzing by, blurry tennis balls flying all over the court. Nice arms on that boy! We also watched the ladies Legends doubles semi-finals with Lindsay Davenport, Martina Hingis vs Sandrine Testud and Andrea Temesvari. Seeing these amazing women hit the ball certainly makes me want to get back on the court and see if I still even know how to hold a racket. Tennis is now officially on the Calgary 2011 summer activities list. I kept scanning the crowds for my 1980’s tennis hero Borg in his Fila track suit and sweaty headband but no Bjorn sightings for me at the French Open. Not too happy to hear that Nadal has now matched Borg’s record of six French Open titles.
Fabulous 9 day visit from Jackie, le theatre, handball games, writing groups, graffiti, Musee d’Orsay, Andre Agassi, a trip to Gex, family visits, Montmartre, Loveday, lunch & visits with long lost German relatives, Belleville, sun filled days, bike rides, perfectly chilled panaches, Napoleon’s tomb, the streets of Paris, climbing La Tour Eiffel for the 3rd time this year, being "mooned" by French teenagers, Les Invalides, walks along Blvd de Montmorency, Corinne & Dave, many hours writing, weekends at the family country house, and far too much wine have all kept me from my weekly blog updates –at least these are my credible excuses. With one month left is Paris I am being called by the deliciously warm summer days & evenings and the gorgeous city streets. Am feeling “bien dans ma peau” in my home away from home. Plan to take advantage of it while I can.
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